Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Out of the kitchen for two weeks

I'm away from home on a deployment to Mescalero Apache Reservation in New Mexico. It's been a break from cooking and unfortunately, a break from good eating. I'm staying in the Inn of the Mountain Gods, a beautiful lodge with two restaurants--a huge buffet affair and a fancy steak house. One meal at the buffet was enough--not bad food but too much of everything and nothing is great. Food is not the focus of this trip anyway--this is all about my real job, mental health services, so I was not expecting to have great food experience anyway.
I did find one great place to eat, El Comal, a very small place on Sudderth in Ruidoso, a few miles from the inn. Only a few tables in this tiny place where the chips are cooked after the customers come in and order. Homemade salsa, homemade tortillas, and everything fresh, fresh, fresh.
The mole was the best I've ever tasted but it was ordered by Maurice, one of the deployment team members. I ordered chicken fajitas but they were kind of boring compared to the mole.
Also, the chicken tortilla soup was very tasty and well seasoned. I have to go back again.
Other meals at chain sandwich shops are fine and a soup/salad at Cattle Baron Steak/Seafood was fine, but after 4 days away from food I'm starting to wish I could make some spicy Thai food or have simple Japanese meal. I am enjoying a break away from the kitchen though and my hands are so soft and smooth, a nice side effect.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Chef at last! No more Culinary School Chronicle

Kyndal, my 6 year old granddaughter jumped in at the last minute.

My children call me Chef Mom and could care less if I have a culinary school diploma, but they were all there at my graduation, including my daughter, Helen, who drove all the way from Houston. I had such a great time with all four of the children and my two granddaughters here at the same time. We don't all get together that often now that they are out on their own. The simplicity of waking up every day to your own children in the house is not to be taken for granted. The time passes very quickly and suddenly they are gone (or should be gone--always the boomerang child, Glenn at home.) Having the culinary diploma may not be a big deal to some but I believe it's an accomplishment to have stuck with it despite working full time, having a part time private psychotherapy practice, deployment training, on-call duties, and a home to run. I will start taking on cooking jobs now and actually have a few paying prospects. For one, I have sold a few pounds of my pecan brittle to some of my husband's friends. This vanilla, butter pecan brittle is really unique and I learned to make it from my 80 something neighbor, Dorothy Short.
I have two people who want sushi classes for 6 or 7. At $50.00 a person I will actually earn some money for being a chef! I think that's pretty exciting and I'm looking forward to it.
Before I do anything else, though, I am going to make a LOT of goodies for the Chef's Holiday Pantry fundraiser coming up in a few days. I'll miss the actual event because I'll be flying out to a deployment for two weeks.
I'm going to make pecan brittle, ginger molasses cookies, pumpkins bread and my famous blondies. I'll give some as gifts and send some over the the fundraiser.

Culinary School Graduation: December 12, 2009

Julie, Bill Byrd, Chef Kurima, Chef Waier, and Chef Loy

September 6, 2008 was my first blog entry and I managed to write an entry for every single class this past 16 months. Graduation was attended by my family--all four children and both granddaughters there, as well as a few friends. Tom and Linda Collins, Jane and Brent Lyon, and Kevin and Kaki were there. The ceremony was short and we were each given our diploma, a medallion and a chef hat. I was also recognized for becoming a member of the NTHS, National Technical Honor Society. Six of us received purple and white cords to wear and a certificate. After the ceremony we had a lovely reception at the Culinary School of Fort Worth. Students had worked hard to make tasty appetizers such as stuffed won tons, polenta, chocolate treats, and many other tasty finger foods. My family and friends had a wonderful time touring the school and tasting the variety of food. We met back at our house and continued the celebration with more food and some desserts I had made earlier in the day.

Our class. I'm in there somewhere.

Chef Pro III: Final Exam!!!

It's finally over! The written exam was not too bad--lots of writing and describing the techniques for several types of dishes. I knew that would go well, but the cooking part is always the wild card. There were 4 parts:
Block 1: Knife skills--small dice an onion, julienne a potato, brunoise a carrot in 5 minutes.

Block 2: Make an omelet, French onion soup, and whipped cream in 40 minutes.
The omelet was fine, French onion soup not so great (onions did ot caramelize enough), and good whipped cream (by hand, of course)

Block 3: Eggs Benedict and blond roux in 30 minutes. Making the Hollandaise sauce was a little stressful but it was actually a good sauce. My egg was poached nicely and the presentation was good. The blond roux was OK, a little thin.

Block 4: Risotto Milanese and Chicken Tarragon in 40 minutes. Risotto is not a quick dish so I made that first and it was pretty tasty. The Chicken Tarragon was cooked properly but my sauce was just a little too thick. Overall everything was passable I think. Chef Waier said "good job" on most everything.

Just getting it all done on time felt like success and knowing this was the last time I would be under pressure to create something that was getting a grade was a good feeling.

It was way too hectic to take photos so none for this class. Next entry will be graduation.

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Shift Gears Soon

I am now studying for the final exam, a written test and practical exam. I'll write about it next week. In the meantime I'm working on the website for my personal chef business and planning to continue my blog with a shift in focus. I'll be free to write about anything--and that's a nice thought. I have so many things to write about I don't know where to start, but I'll probably begin with my family. This Thanksgiving, my son Glenn remarked that the holiday meal was OK, but nothing all that special since he eats so many of my "gourmet" meals regularly. I had a good laugh over that. My husband, however, proclaimed that the ham was the best part of the Thanksgiving dinner. I made a cheese ball with applewood smoked bacon, fresh cranberry sauce, Garnet yam puree, mashed potatoes, cornbread dressing with my own cornbread, salt & herb crusted fresh turkey, a corn casserole, fresh green beans with my own mushroom cream sauce, and pumpkin and apple pies, from scratch. The delicious ham was simply heated in the oven right out of the package and came from Sam's!
Oh well, you can't please everyone. At times like this I really miss my mother, a big fan of all things Thanksgiving. She would have loved it all.
I plan to write in detail about my family growing up. It is an opportunity to reach back in time, through food, to touch my loved ones.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Chef Pro III: Week 12: Plate Presentation

I came to class feeling unprepared, not having spent much time reading up on plate presentation or looking at books or google images. I've been out of town on business and just plain busy. I told myself that I would just be inspired by the ingredients and do my best to be creative, something I always stuggle with when it comes to plating food. Chef Waier had prepared three types of plate presentations for us to view. The naturalist, architecture,and minimalist. The Naturalist

The naturalist brings to mind Alice Waters-style while the architectural style is what you might call "tall food" (see photo). The minimalist can best be described as the "deconstruction" method of plating. Architecture Minimalist

Final exam practice: Disaster! I had trouble cutting the potato, onion, and carrot in the 5 minute timeline. (Small dice the onion, julienne the potato, and brunoise the carrot). We had to make an omelet in 45 seconds--mine looked like a scrambled egg. By the way, we can only use the pan--no utensils). Even my blonde roux was not quite thick enough. We then had to produce mayonnaise and hollandaise sauce in 15 minutes. Making mayonnaise requires whisking egg yolks and lemon juice, and slowing adding oil--slowly is one drop at a time. I went to fast and it didn't emulsify the first time but I corrected it and it was fine. My hollandaise sauce, however, broke because I added too much butter too soon. We are going to be tested on all these things at the final in 2 weeks! Yikes, I had to get on the ball and practice.
For plate presentation we had to prepare three dishes and were given the recipes to use as a guideline--but we could make some changes as long as we used the ingredients that would identify the dish. The first dish was a club sandwich. We had several types of bread, turkey, tomatoes, lettuce, our homemade mayo, avocados (too hard to use) and bacon. I had the idea to make "club sandwich sushi" which was taking a piece of white bread, rolling it out a bit, brushing it with sambal flavored mayo, adding a slice of turkey, lettuce leaves, thin tomato slices, and a piece of bacon in the center. I took extra care to make all the fillings very thin so it would roll and it did. I sliced it into 4 pieces and held it together with a toothpick. It actually looked very cool and tasted good.

My second assignment was to make a cobb salad using typical ingredients--lettuce, tomato, turkey, cheese, vinaigrette, avocado, bacon, and boiled egg. Again, we could change it up as long as we used the basic ingredients. I decided to make a cobb tostada salad and deep fried a corn tortilla. I layered shredded lettuce, julienne tomatoes, cheese, and boiled egg on top. I made a sugar and chile bacon.
My vinaigrette was a chipotle vinaigrette with a nice kick to it. This also turned out well, looked nice and tasted good. The bacon is out of this world. Try it:

Thick cut bacon (1/2 lb)
1/2 cut brown sugar
1 tsp chili powder
dash cayenne
Mix sugar and spices. Spread on bacon, front and back until well coated.
Place bacon slices on a baking rack and bake at 375 degrees, watching it so it doesn't burn.

Last assignment was to make Steak Dijonaise. Boring....how to make a piece of steak look good on the plate? The steak is basically a thinly pounded sirloin with Dijon mustard and diced onions pressed into it. I cut some thin potatoes in a rectangular shape, fried them and then layered the same size slices of steak and potatoes in a fanned pattern. I made a mixed field green salad with Dijon vinaigrette as a side.
This was OK but not that great looking, however it sure tasted good.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Chef Pro III: Week 11: Fusion Cooking









The week before this class we all drew slips of paper which contained our countries or regions for this class. I drew Ireland, Greece, Asia, California, and Carribean.
Then for class we drew from three cups: 2 were countries and 1 was a type of dish to prepare. My first dish was Asia/Carribean/dessert. I greated a potsticker filled with a sweet potato, coconut puree. I fried the potsticker and sifted some confectioner's sugar on top. It was not too bad and best of all, it fit the assignment. I drew California/Ireland/soup next. Hmmm--this was a little tougher.
I made a vegetable broth based soup with fresh vegetables and chopped potatoes. It was light and pleasant tasting. For the next dish I drew Asia/Greece/appetizer. I saw some nice looking eggplant, tasted it and was surprized at how sweet it was. I made tempura batter, fried the eggplant and then made a Greek yogurt, cucumber sauce.
For the next dish, Carribean/Asia/entree, I made a chicken stir fry with various vegetables, chicken, and a sweet and spicy sauce, served with rice. Not too imaginative, but OK. Finally, the Greece/Ireland/amuse bouche, a grape leaf stuffed with a mashed potato/feta cheese filling. This was not too bad but truthfully I despise grape leaves so I'm glad I didn't have to eat it.
Overall fusion was fine but I was not feeling well that night. A couple days before I had twisted my back in some strange way and sprained it pretty badly, requiring a trip to the doctor and presciptions for a muscle relaxer and pain meds. Simply standing was very hard and I kept having muscle spasms in my legs. My goal was just to get through the class and survive so I felt good that I completed the assignments and even made fairly good dishes.

Chef Pro III: Week 10: Wine Pairing



I've been so busy lately I've put off writing in the blog and now it's hard to catch up properly. Wine pairing class was something I was anticipating with a little anxiety. We were going to have Chef Jon Bonnell as our instructor and would be asked to make dishes to go with wine he selected for us. Chef Bonnell taught our wine class last year about this time and I knew how particular he is about attention to detail. He lectured very briefly on wine pairing and then had us taste the 6 wines we would be using. They ranged from lighter whites to very earthy reds, both oaked and unoaked, domestic and foreign. I wish I had paid more attention to the wines but in my anxiousness to figure out what I would cook I completely overlooked the wines we tasted. He assigned us each two different wines, one a white and one a red. We had to make two dishes and we were given a time based on the progression of lighter to heavier wines. I had to present a dish fairly early with a savignon blanc and then later with a pinot noir. We had a good selection of proteins to choose from and plenty of pantry and produce items, however it was hard for me to come up with a dish. I decided to make something similar to a delicious dish I had tasted recently which was served with a Chardonnay. It was a baked egg dish. I lined a ramekin with toasted french bread, sauteed some andouille sausage, mushrooms, and shallots, added some tarragon, parsley, and chives, then an egg and some parmesan cheese. I was worried about overcooking it and ended up undercooking it slightly. I drizzled on some reduced brown stock. We had to bring our dish out to the dining room where Chef Bonnell, Chef Kurima, and Chef Ray were seated at a table as if it were a fine dining restaurant. We presented the dish to the chefs and then waited while Chef Bonnell tasted the food, then took a sip of wine and told us whether or not the wine went with the food. Talk about pressure! Culinary school is a lot like being on a Food Network challenge or Chopped.
Chef Bonnell liked the taste of the dish itself but did not think it was a great match for the wine--a little too heavy with the mushrooms and brown stock. I tasted the dish and so did some of the other students who all agreed it was very tasty. Eric told me to be sure to put in on my menu if I ever have a restaurant. Here is the recipe:
Baked eggs (serves 2)
2 eggs (get the best ones you can fine--Eggland organic)
2 oz finely chopped smoked ham
1 shallot, finely chopped
chives, parsley, tarragon--finely chopped total 1 tsp each
Parmesan cheese, grated--2 oz
Brioche or French bread, cut to fit bottom of ramekin.
1 cup chicken or beef stock, reduced to 1/4 cup, seasoned with salt and pepper to taste

Grill or toast bread and place in bottom of 6 oz ramekin. Sprinkle with ham, mushrooms and herbs. Crack egg in ramekin and sprinkle cheese on top. Bake at 375 degrees for approximately 15-20 minutes. Drizzle reduced stock on top.
Enjoy it with a glass of Chardonnay!

My second dish was more successful and I wish I had taken a photograph of it. I made a filet mignon, grilled and served with a potato, onion, bacon hash and a beer and pepper sauce. I roasted jalapeno peppers, add onions, garlic, beer and brown stock, reduced it and added some tomato sauce, worchestershire sauce and other seasonings. Chef Bonnell complimented my steak and said it was crusty, juicy, and tasted well seasoned. He also liked the potato hash and sauce--just wanted a little more sauce. I will definitely make this dish again. It is my version of the steak I've been enjoying at the now closed Cafe Soleil in Azle. Chef Paula Ambrose would not divulge how she makes her pepper sauce but mine, although different, was pretty good. It went well with the Pinot Noir, so I was pleased with the experience and felt a little better than I did after the first dish.

Needless to say, wine pairing is not an easy task and takes a lot of study and practice. I will continue to work on this as much as I can.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Chef Pro III: Week 9: Escoffier

My cooking partner, Ray
OK, think of an assignment so complicated you will surely get a headache--that is the Escoffier class. Pick up the book, Le Guide Culinare sometime and you'll see what I mean. Escoffier is the first person to codify la grand cuisine, classic French cooking. We got a packet of "recipes" from Escoffier's book and were assigned a partner. Together we had to produce the following:
3674
4161
4151
See, I told you it was fun.
We then had to scan through pages of small print to figure out what the numbers represented. 3674: Cotelettes de Cailles d'Aumale, 4151: Oignons farcis
4161: Petis Pois a la flamande
Headache yet?
After figuring out we were really making quail with a mousselline forcemeat, layered and baked, peas and carrots, and a stuffed onion, we were off to the kitchen. Ray volunteered to make all the vegetables leaving me with the quail dish. I recognized mousseline as the awful thing I messed up in seafood class so I was worried.
I found the tiny quails in the walk-in and then started making the dish. Making anything with the meat from these little birds is a challenge but I managed to make a decent mousseline, layer it with seared quail breasts and mushrooms. It turned out right, a little overdone on the quail, but not bad considering I never saw or tasted this dish before. I actually thought is was a very flavorful dish and enjoyed the bite I tried.
Our other dishes were fairly good--a little underdone on the onion, a little overdone on the peas and carrots but good taste.
We were given a extra dish to make--a stuffed tomato. Having learned from the underdone onion, we cooked the tomato just right. I made the duxelles which were not quite brown enough but not too bad. Classmates made an assortment of strange looking dishes, some ok, some horrible tasting--not their fault. I loved Patti's Pears Melba with raspberry puree and homemade ice cream. Yum.
I will not be making a lot of classic French food in the future. Way too time consuming for the finished product.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Chef Pro III: Week 8: International--Southwest

I'm a big fan of southwestern cooking. I have all of Bobby Flay's books after all, and a freezer full of Hatch green chiles I bought back in August, and many spices from the Santa Fe School of cooking in my pantry, along with bags of red chile powder, dried posole, and masa in the freezer. You'd think I was a freaking expert in southwestern cooking if you looked around my house. So why is it then that when Chef Loy tells us to create 5 southwestern dishes in the next 2 hours and 45 minutes I have such a hard time? Is it because mid life hormones have destroyed my memory? Is it pressure? What the heck is it? I did manage to make some pretty decent dishes but I could have done much, much better given my knowledge and experience. I did study up on some more complicated things such as tamales and sauces so I could make them from memory. Ever try to make tamales from memory??? Here are my dishes:
Chicken tamales with green chile sauce--I made masa with masa harina, corn, stock, and spices, filled with with a chicken, jalapeno, spice mixture. Ambitious project for the time but they turned out pretty good according to the Chef Loy.
Chipotle corn chowder--Chef Loy had to run to the store to buy a can of chipotles in adobo and I'm glad he did because my corn chowder turned out very nice. Corn, chipoltles, stock, cumin, cream, finished with a little grated cheese.
Quesadilla--open faced with the homemade flour tortilla and peppers, goat cheese, and a roasted tomato sauce I made. Not that great
Huevos rancheros--New Mexico style, with black beans, flour tortilla, green chile sauce
I liked it but the chefs weren't too crazy about it. What do they know about New Mexico?
Guacamole--last minute crazy thrown together dish with literally 5 minutes left til the presentation window closed. I threw an underripe avocado in the processor, some of my roasted tomato sauce, ran to the fryer and deep fried a corn tortilla (homemade), put the guacamole and chips on a plate and ran to present it. They loved it. Figures.

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Capstone Project Progress: Chef Julia Personal Chef Services

I'm getting excited about launching my real culinary business, Chef Julia Personal Chef Services. I have created several menus, recipes, and price lists, have business cards and am researching websites. I will have brochures made soon. The big project for our final semester has been to write up our business plan in a very detailed format. I am almost finished with the project and ready to move on to actually having a client one day, or teaching a class. I believe I will be more than ready when the time comes. Look for details on this blog and a link to the Chef Julia webpage once I construct it.

Chef Pro III: Week 7: Advanced Nutrition

I felt pretty comfortable with the subject matter of this class. I am very interested in nutrition and read a lot about it, particularly eating for health. I am also very aware of special diets for people with health concerns after being around my mother, who was diabetic and then later on a renal diet. Then there's my son with the nut allergy who has made me cautious about using cashews in anything. He never had a reaction until he ate a cashew blondie, then started swelling and itching like crazy. He had to go to the Emergency Room for treatment!
We studied various diets for celiac disease, heart disease, gastric bypass, diabetic and others and then were given our assignment. We were given a role on the line and then Chef Kurima would give us a ticket. The ticket would specify the type of dietary restriction. We took turns being the executive chef, sous chef, line cook, and prep. Our first order was for a child with celiac disease and lactose intolerant. We made risotto with peas and corn and some pieces of chicken.
We were told that children don't like their food touching and we should have made chicken nuggets. I was under the impression that we were in an upscale restaurant so I didn't think about making a fast food type dish. Besides, my children all loved rice dishes with any number of added ingredients, but then they grew up in a Japanese/American household. We were given a variety of different tickets with low carb, heart disease, gastric bypass, diabetic, etc. You get the picture. We were not so great but not terrible either. At least we didn't kill anyone and we were able to come up with a dish for every order. The final order was a dish for a customer who was blind, a smoker, had only one arm, dentures, and high blood pressure. At least chef has a sense of humor. Chef Ray volunteered to help us out by being the executive chef and we made shrimp and grits. His idea was to make a shrimp mousse served in a demitasse cup after it was baked in the oven. You can guess what happened when chef closed her eyes and tried to sample the food. Of course, she touched the demitasse cup and said, there you go--a lawsuit for my burn. So, even Chef Ray is not immune from the bad idea. Overall, a fun class and good learning experience. Not too stressed out for a change.

Chef Pro III: Week 6: Food Trends

Food fads come and go but a trend has the potential to become a long term influence on the market. A few years ago I thought the whole "tapas" trend was silly but I've come to accept it and actually like the idea of sampling small plates instead of one large entree. Some current trends include:

Snack Attack--bar snacks, meze plates
Barbeque--wood smoked everythingBeer--steamed mussels with Belgian beerFarm fresh
French cuisine--making a comeback
American Cheese--not the yucky orange stuff, but cheese made in America
Noodle mania--kobe short rib teriyaki lo-mein or chap-chae Korean noodles
Fruit--used with savory dishes
Dolce!--Ricotta polenta pie, ricotta & hazelnut torte
Our assignment was to made 5 dishes representing the above trends. No other instructions, no specific ingredients. We could present our dishes at 2 different time periods, each lasting 30 minutes.
This was a tough class for me. I just could not think of anything great to make and the ingredients we had to choose from did not inspire me. I made some Thai chicken wings in fish sauce but the wings were old and tough and the fish sauce was old and smelled even worse than fish sauce usually smells. I made Chiang Mai noodles for noodlemania but it was "flat" and not great. My pork and brie slider with raspberry sauce was a flop--seedy and thick raspberry glop was more like it. I made a shrimp skewer with a chipotle orange sauce for the fruit trend and that sauce was actually good, but the shrimp was old and stringy. I didn't even make a 5th dish, just ran out of time. We had the same issue with long waiting periods to have our dishes evaluated so I should have made quicker dishes.
Not a favorite class. I am anxious to move on and start cooking without criticism. I am capable of making great food but culinary school sometimes makes me feel insecure about my abilities.

A few days after this class I hosted a brunch at my house for some church friends and made some trendy foods. Open-face quesadillas covered with farm fresh peppers from my CSA box, migas with Hatch green chile sauce I made with the August crop of Hatch peppers, brown sugar chile bacon, cream cheese filled pumpkin mufffins and Mexican hot chocolate. My friends enjoyed it and I had to admit I had a much easier time pulling it off after my year + of culinary school. I am a lot faster and more efficient in the kitchen and my imagination and creativity has improved (at home anyway!)

Brunch with friends





Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Chef Pro III: Week 5: Timed Cooking

Chef Waier showing us how to clean squid


Dread, dread--timed cooking. Have you ever seen the show Chopped? Well this class is similar.
Chef Waier gives us an assignment and we have 20 minutes to execute it. We had 45 minutes to set up mise en place, then we were told to prepare an amuse bouche in 20 minutes. Of course my mind is blank--no notes, no recipes, no instructions--just use anything we had available.
The amuse bouche is a small bite, one bite, intended to wake up the taste buds and given at the beginning of the meal. I took a won ton wrapper, cut out a small circle, fried it, then topped it with a very thin cucumber slice, crumbled feta cheese, a few cranberries which had been hydrated in apple juice, some herbs, sea salt, lemon zest and balsamic vinaigrette. It was actually pretty tasty and decent looking.
Next assignment: Make an appetizer using spam. Yuck! Spam is salty and nasty. I decided to saute it and combine it with onions and cabbage and make okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake with aioli and steaksauce. I undercooked the pancake slightly and it had a bit of a doughy taste but it wasn't too bad.
Next assignment: Make a soup using strawberries. Hmm--we made peach soup in CPI but I sure didn't remember how. I asked one of the students what she thought was in it and she said yogurt. I found some vanilla and plain yogurt so I combined the yogurt, some cream, sugar, mint, lemon zest, vanilla and used the immersion blender to puree it. It was actually good.
Next assignment: Make an entree using pork. Did I mention I had worked at the Sunday brunch from 7-3 today on the line making pork chops? Also, I was physically and mentally exhausted by this point and could barely think straight. I decided to make a Thai curry with coconut milk, carrots, zucchini, onions, cumin, coriander, mace, turmeric, reduced by half, then added the sauteed pork with ginger and garlic. I served it with rice. Not bad for 20 minutes!
Next assignment: Make a dessert using thyme. I could not find anything that I thought would go good with thyme. I wanted peaches but could only find oranges and apples. I did what I saw on Chopped--put the cut up fruit in a pan with sugar, brandy, thyme, cinnamon and cooked it. I had made crepe batter earlier so I decided to make an apple thyme crepe with chantilly brandy cream. My crepe was a little too thick but the crepe stuffed with apple was not too bad. Not great, but for 20 minutes I can't complain. First time I ever made a crepe too.
Last assignment: Make a sandwich and side dish. Oh my, so tired and ready to go home. I made a Monte Christo sandwich with a fruit salad. It was pretty standard but I thought it was yummy. Not really too creative, but heck I was happy to be able to make anything after 13 hours on my feet. After all, I'm not a spring chicken (an expression my father used to use for "old" people).
I decided that the next time I work the Sunday brunch I will go to the Tuesday class!

My amuse bouche


Strawberry soup

Chef Pro III: Week 4: Classic Recipes

Chef Waier delivered a fascinating lecture on classic recipes including some history of haute cuisine, epicurian, Escoffier, Nouvelle cuisine, and fusion. We studied this in CP I so it was more of a review. The class tonight was intended to test our skills in actually preparing the classic dishes. Our recipe packet consisted of:
Pork Piccata
Chicken Kiev
Veal Cordon Bleu
Carpaccio
Gratin Dauphinoise
Duck a l'Orange
Quiche Lorraine
Beef Consomme
Risotto Milanese
Mulligatawny Soup
Bananas Foster

I was assigned to prepare consomme and Bananas Foster with homemade vanilla ice cream, presented table side. I have never made either dish before and read all about how hard it is to make good consomme in Michael Ruhlman's book. I managed to make the consomme right and it was clear enough to read a dime at the bottom of the bowl. I prepared a cart with all the ingredients for the Bananas Foster and wheeled it out to the dining room where I made it for the Chefs Waier and Ray. I read up on the history of Bananas Foster because my instructions were to talk throughout the presentation. The flambe was dramatic and overall the dish was very good as well as the homemade French vanilla ice cream. I was pleased that it went so well and am looking forward to making some at home--although I think I will add a slice of golden butter cake.
The other dishes were very well prepared by my classmates. I sampled beef carpaccio for the first time and really liked it.

Chef Pro III: Week 3: Organization & Admin

Capstone project information was the focus of this class with no actual cooking, just lecture and discussion. We learned about menu development, food costs and cost controls, equipment issues, public health concerns, food purchasing, labor costs, and a lot of discussion on menu develpment. It's important to understand the technical details because the idea of having of food related business for many of us is just a fantasy and based on some general information we've read about or been told about by someone in the business, but not based on the reality of today's food prices and client behaviors. If you haven't already noticed, people are having trouble paying their bills so eating cheaply is a trend right now--just like the article in October's Oprah magazine about saving money by coloring your own hair, people are cooking at home more.
Highly unlikely lines will be forming to sign up for a personal chef service charging even more than restaurant food. I'm relieved I don't have to make a living as a personal or private chef right now but that was really one of my original plans. I also want to teach people how to cook, classes, privately, or for the food bank. Our class today is a wake up call for making a profit from the dream business. Time for me to get to work writing up my menu, equipment and supply list, and costing and pricing draft. For the capstone project I am using a sushi class as an example of a class I will teach. I will price out the menu for this one class, but I'll develop menus for several other classes. For research I have been attending Central Market cooking classes this year (and I attended a few starting in 2007 since I've had this idea for a long time). I attended Sushi 101 last year, and then on October 1, 2009 I attended Sushi 2. It was good to observe the instructor and note the equipment and supplies used. I spoke to the instructor after the class about my interest in teaching classes on Japanese cooking, my attendance at the culinary school and she actually asked me to teach a class at Central Market! This would be an awesome experience as well as an opportunity to market my Chef Julia business, so I am working on some ideas to give her.

My signature dish, sukiyaki

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Chef Pro III: Week 2: Recipe Development

At the Zest Fest with Lisa Wright

I have spent the entire week working on recipe development. I volunteered to participate in the Pace Recipe Contest for this year's Zest Fest, held in Ft. Worth on the 11-13 of September. Every year the CSFTW and the Tarrant County College Culinary Arts Program compete against one another on the stage at the Zest Fest. Previous years it's been a salsa contest and the CSFTW has won both years. This year it was a contest to see who could create a recipe using Pace Salsa Verde. A few of us got together with Chef Kurima to brainstorm recipe ideas. I brought in Korean Barbeque with Salsa Verde Slaw served on a fried wonton, Lisa Wright brought pesto and Ray brought some homemade pasta. After a lot of discussion and tasting the idea for a pasta dish using the pesto won, primarily because the Pace website did not show any recipes for an Italian twist on the salsa verde, however there was a vinaigrette like the one in my slaw and marinade. We planned to get together Sunday morning, the day of the contest, and make the final recipe. We were all busy Saturday night trying to think of creative plating ideas and Annie Lebonati came up with one using the idea of tacos but instead of a tortilla shell she used habanero jack cheese in the form of a cheese crisp. The pasta with the green pesto then resembled lettuce. We decided to use some sauteed julienned peppers for color and taste and a grilled shrimp on top. We spent Sunday morning making all the components, made a couple test examples which tasted and looked very nice, then set off for the Zest Fest. Our team and the TCC team made the recipes for the judges who included a TV weather woman, (Rebecca Miller) and the director of the Central Market cooking school. Jon Bonnell tasted the food but could not be judge due to his status as one of our instructors. Sadly, we lost by 1 point. The TCC students made a crepe dish with different fruits and sauces so I guess the judges had a sweet tooth.
Who knows? But, Jon Bonnell ate the entire "taco" and said he'd put in on the menu at Bonnell's (his famous restaurant) so I don't feel so bad. All in all, good experience and good practice for recipe development (and a LOT of work).
After spending all day cooking and running around I still had class from 3-8 that evening. I was pretty tired when class started and knew that we had Chef Gwin Grimes for our instructor. I've been looking forward to having her as an instructor since school started last year. I buy bread from her Artisan Baking Company as often as I can and I think she is very talented, creative, and plain nice. I've taken two classes she's taught at Central Market as well. Our class focused on recipe development and how to write professional recipes. We were given written materials and good information on recipe development and then an assignment. It was like mystery basket all over again! We drew slips of paper with various ingredients and I drew tilapia.
My assignment was to create a recipe for an upscale fish house opening in Ft. Worth. We had one hour to complete the dish and write up the recipe. The next part of the assignment involved drawing one of the recipes the other students developed and making that recipe.
I made a tilapia tostada with creole aioli and smoked sausage cream sauce. It was pretty successful, a little too much dressing, but tasty. I drew Eric's dish, a cheeseburger and fries.
No problem with that and it tasted alright. I was so glad when class was over and I could go home and rest!

The Zest Fest entry for the Pace Salsa Verde Challenge

Monday, September 7, 2009

Chef Pro III: Week 1

This is it--the final semester of culinary school. It's been one year since I wrote the first blog entry and I will continue posting until graduation. Week 1 was time for testing skills we learned in previous classes. We had knife skills--5 minutes to julienne a potato, brunoise a carrot, and small dice an onion. We had to make an omelet with no utensils and French onion soup within 40 minutes. Then we had the rest of the class to make eggs benedict (with Hollandaise sauce), chantilly cream (whipped cream by hand), pork with a pan sauce, and 1/2 cup of roux. My omelet was very good--but I have spent many messy times in my kitchen making Julia Child style omelets by shaking the eggs and turning them in the pan with no utensils. I also made good chantilly cream. The eggs benedict were OK and I felt good about making decent Hollandaise sauce (something I had practiced at home yesterday!) My French onion soup was fair--onions were not quite carmelized, and my pork was a little overdone and the sauce a little too thick. Overall, not bad but not great either. As usual, I was happy just to have finished everything and not too worried about the performance. I know I can make all these things well and need to fine tune my skills.
We are moving on to some interesting topics now including our future endeavors. We had a few minutes to meet with the chef instructors, Chef Kurima, Chef Waier, and Chef Ray about our plans. For now I have decided to do my "capstone project" on a business involving teaching cooking classes focused on healthy eating. I will need to really develop this idea and come up with 2 classes and the menu for each class.
I have also volunteered to be involved with the recipe development for a contest at the Zest Fest this week. We have to create a recipe using Pace Salsa Verde--more on that later.

Pastry Pro I: Final Exam

The Pastry Pro I final was on August 19, 2009. I have been putting off entering this post for weeks. I had to leave for a week a couple days after class for business, then we had a week of vacation in Santa Fe. I'll make it short since I have now started the final semester and need to catch up on that one as well.
The pastry class final was hard. We were given a list of items we could make for certain point values and we worked in teams. My partner was Tela, who is very skilled and low key, an easy person to work with. I decided to make pie crust, blitz puff pastry, stirred custard, chantilly cream, and then create a chocolate cream pie and some type of turnover with the blitz puff pastry. Tela made a cake, muffins, and a few other things. Over all everything I made was just OK. My pie filling was a little undercooked and had a "flour" taste. I didn't fold the blitz puff pastry quite right and it was not even when it rose. The berry turnovers I made with the blitz pastry were a little overdone and the filling got burnt. I did manage to finish all my items but the quality was not what I wanted. One problem was the heat in the kitchen. August, ovens, people--all made for hot air. Trying to make pie crust in a hot room is very challenging.
We could have used the outer kitchen if we were thinking clearly--but we didn't.
I am glad pastry class is over and ready to move on to the final semester. I learned a lot of techniques and skills in pastry but I have been trying to move away from a lifestyle that uses a lot of the things we learned in pastry. As much as I love to make pies, cakes, and pastries it is not something I will spend a lot of time doing, although I will use what I've learned to make whole grain and healthier pasties, pizza crust, pie crusts, etc.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Pastry Pro I: Week 12: Finished Product

My sad looking banana cream pie

It's really Week 13 for the class but 12 for me since I missed a couple classes. Today was a make-up day because I was out of town earlier in the week and missed class, but it's finished product class so it really doesn't matter. My assignment was to make a banana cream pie and pots de creme. I have never made pots de creme before which is not a good idea, since I wasn't quite sure how it should taste and I had never tried the recipe. The pots de creme was rather grainy tasting, probably over cooked the custard, although I did it in the bain marie. I topped it with a chantilly cream mixed with cherry preserves. My pie should have been a cinch. I have practiced making several pies over the semester and know how to make a good pie. I made the first mistake by putting the dough in the freezer. When I took it out it was so hard and dry. It took a while to work it out and then it didn't roll out well. I ended up with a rather shrunken crust and not very nice looking. I made the pastry cream but I was trying to make extra in case on the pie crusts didn't work out. By making a big batch of pastry cream and not cooling it fast enough it overcooked some and tasted "eggy". I also made an orange caramel sauce which tasted bitter. So nothing worked out right in the end. The pie crust was slightly underdone, the cream overdone with a bitter sauce! But, Julie, the office manager at the school ate a piece and said it was tasty! I know I can do much better though.
Next day:


I had to make another pie so I made both a fruit tart with a pastry crust and a chocolate cream pie. They both turned out very nicely and got lots of compliments at the dinner party.
Sometime I'll post the chocolate cream pie recipe. I would make it again and may make it for the final.
In my "real" life I am going away for a week for a deployment training exercise. No gourmet food there!

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Pastry Pro I: Week 11: Finished Product

At 10:00 PM it's hard to get excited about eating cake!


I thought today would be fairly simple--make cake with mango lime curd filling and Italian Meringue. I figured I'd even have time to make some other types of cake. After all I had already made two types of cake--"magnificent butter cake" and pound cake. My cakes seemed OK so I started on the mango lime curd. Now I made this at home but for some dumb reason I messed it up at school by adding some simple syrup to the mangos when I pureed them. Then when I mixed the mangos with the lime curd it became too thin and watery. Still tasted very good though. I was successful with the Italian Meringue, however, and had learned from previoius experience that I should be sure to heat up the sugar/water to a high enough temp or the egg whites would be dull. I made great meringue, however by the time I used it changes had occurred in it and the texture was not quite as nice. I made a 4 layer butter cake with the mango curd filling but when Chef Kurima cut into it you couldn't see the layers. She suggested trying some raspberry jam as a thin layer to make the filling more visible. The pound cake was so dry even the curd didn't and simple syrup didn't help. Over all, OK but not great night and I sure won't be making this cake for the final.
I found out my partner for the final will be Tela. I'm very happy to have her as a partner. She is very skilled and reliable. We have to make enough to earn 100 points but after tonight when it took 3 hours to make a couple little cakes I'm wondering how in the heck I'm going to make several things in 3 hours. It is not going to be easy.


Butter cakes with mango lime curd and Italian meringue


Sunday, August 2, 2009

Pastry Pro I: Week 10: Finished Product, week 1

Pastries at the end of class--how would you like to sample all of these at 10:30 PM?
Apple Peach tart with frangipane and peach coulis

Chocolate Croissant with chocolate sauce



Mixed berry turnover with berry cream


We are taking the next three classes to use various components we've made since the beginning of Pastry Pro I. We've made pie dough, tart dough, croissant dough, and various fillings and sauces. We can use the components we've already made or we can start over and make them fresh. If we wanted to we could have made puff pastry or croissant dough and brought it in but I didn't choose to do that. I decided to make blitz or quick puff pastry instead. It doesn't rise as much as real puff pastry but it's close enough. We were able to choose the finished products to make and for the first week I made blitz puff pastry and chocolate croissants and apple pear tarts with fangipane. I also planned to make berry turnovers if there was time. I didn't have any trouble with the blitz puff pastry. Fortunately I had practiced a few times at home and even as soon as the night before class so I felt confident in making the pastry. I also decided to use the croissant dough I had in the freezer and make croissants with both blitz and the croissant dough. The first batch of croisssants came out kind of dark but Chef Sively said they looked fine.
I plated one with chocolate sauce I had made in the previous class and some toasted walnuts.
I used the peach and apple filling Kristin and I made in a previous class, as well as the frangipane to make some free form tarts. I made one larger one, about 6 inches, and the rest 4 inch.
One secret I learned is that puff pastry cooks fast on the outside but the inside is often undercooked (convection oven) If I put the pastries in the still oven at a lower heat for 15-20 minutes and covered them with foil then the insides were fine. I added some peach/ginger coulis to the apple peach tarts. I had time to make berry turnovers as well. The blueberry, raspberry, strawberry pie filling I had made during filling class was still very nice. I added some fresh blueberries to it, thickened it with some cornstarch and the texture was good. Since I had practiced I learned that egg wash was important for putting between the folded sides so it would stick while it was baking. I also brushed everything with egg wash and sprinkled sugar on it. With the berry turnover I made berry chantilly cream--an idea I got from a class I took from Jon Bonnell where he made huckleberry empanadas with huckleberry cream.
All my dishes were good for a change (except the chocolate croissant made with blitz--it was undercooked). I was relieved and happy and even enjoyed making the pastries. I think using the ingredients we worked so hard to make in earlier classes was the key to having good finished products. I'm glad to didn't have to start over with everything--and knowing I can take a frozen filling and add some fresh berries to it was something I never would have thought of.
I also realized that the reason I didn't like puff pastry before is I didn't cook it properly. If it was underdone inside I didn't think about putting it in a lower oven for a few minutes.
I'm looking forward to next week's class but somewhat concerned about the final exam. More on that next week.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Pastry Pro I: Week 9: Cakes

Pound cake
We had a surprise drill when we came into class. Make a 2 egg omelet--no utensils of course.
I was not afraid because I had practiced several times at home and I had actually watched Julia Child's original TV recording of the omelet show. She demonstrates over and over how to make an omelet with nothing but the pan and the movement you create. I mixed my 2 eggs with a little kosher salt and water, added clarified butter to the pan and heated it. It looked hot enough so I poured in the eggs and they immediately stuck to the pan! Chef Sively took the spatula and lifted the edges for me (thanks!) and then I recovered and made the omelet without anything but the pan and my arm. It turned out pretty good but I need to practice. AND make sure the pan is hot enough! We were given some advance warning that the first week of CP3 we'll be expected to make a perfect omelet, French onion soup, roux, risotto, eggs benedict, and demonstrate our knife skills. Time to start practicing!
Cake class was interesting. We learned the difference between foam cakes and high ratio cakes.
Foam cakes rely on whipped eggs for leavening whereas high ratio cakes rely on creamed fat.
Butter cakes are also known as creaming-method cakes. These are our typical birthday cakes and are supposed to be tender, yet sturdy enough to hold fillings and frosting. For a cake that needs to be rolled or sliced into very thin layers, the foam cake works much better. These cakes, called genoise, spongecakes, angel food cakes, and chiffon cakes, can be used as the building blocks to create multi-layered torts. As with all cakes, both butter and foam, can fail miserably due to any number of problems including undermixing, overmixing, undercooking, overcooking, not right temperature, etc. This is probably why cake mixes are so popular. But, a really well made butter cake is a wonderful thing I learned.
I have made many cakes in my life and some have been outstanding. I make a wonderful Italian cream cake, great carrot cake, outstanding German chocolate cake, and many others, but I never had a recipe for a good versatile basic butter cake, nor did I ever think of having a good basic cake to use to create other things. That's the reason culinary school is so great--it opens your eyes to new ways of thinking about things you already know.
For class we were given the following assignment:
Magnificent Moist Golden Cake--creaming method
Magnificent Moist Golden Cake-two-stage method
Magnificent Moist Golden Cake--dissolved sugar method
Classic Genoise
Orange Chiffon Cake
Angel Food Cake
Chocolate Sponge Layer
Joconde Sponge Cake
American Poundcake
Each table made all 3 golden cakes and then we chose just one other type of cake. I chose pound cake.
I worked on the dissolved sugar method cake and it turned out really well. It is so moist and tasty--but the two-stage method cake, made by Matt, was the best. It really was melt-in-the-mouth moist.
Recipe
2 large eggs (3.5 oz) at room temperature
3 large egg yolks (1.95 oz) at room temperature
1/3 cup buttermilk, divided
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups (7.1 oz) spooned and leveled cake flour (you have to use cake flour or it won't work)
1 1/2 cups (10 oz) sugar
1 3/4 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
4 T unsalted butter, cut into 1 T pieces and slightly softened
1/2 cup canola oil
1/2 cup heavy cream
Preheat oven to 350. Spray 9 inch round cake pan with nonstick spray with flour and line with parchment circle.
Stir eggs, yolks, 3 T of the buttermilk and vanilla together in a medium bowl.
Mix together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a mixer with the whisk attachment on low speed for 30 seconds. Add the butter and oil and remaining 2 T buttermilk. Mix on low speed to moisten, then increase to medium and beat 1 1/2 min. Scrape down sides and bottom of bowl. Add 1/3 of the egg mixture and beat for 20 seconds. Repeat, adding thirds until all egg mixture is incorporated. Scrape down sides after each addition.
In a cold bowl with cold beaters, whip the cream until soft peaks form and then beat a little beyond this soft peak stage. Stir about 1/4 of the whipped cream into the batter to lighten it, then fold the rest of the whipped cream into the batter.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Drop the pan onto the counter from a height of 4 inches to knock out bubbles. Place cake in oven and bake until toothpick comes out clean but moist, about 40 minutes. Cool on rack 10 min, then invert cake on rack that has been sprayed with nonstick spray. Peel off parchment. Cool completely before slicing into layers. Enjoy!
We also discussed our upcoming projects for the 3 weeks we will be making the "finished products". We will take things we've learned from previous weeks and using components we have stored in the freezer, such as sauces and fillings, doughs, etc. and fresh sauces and garnishes, we will make at least 6 finished products. We had to discuss and decide on our finished products in class so Chef Kurima can determine if they are reasonable and then make sure the ingredients we need are available the days of class. We have to make the following categories:
Stirred custard
Baked custard
Cake
Pie
Laminated Dough
For stirred custard I'm make a lime-mango curd, for baked custard, chocolate pots de creme, for cake, a coconut, lime-mango poundcake with Italian meringue, and pie a banana cream pie, and for laminated dough, blitz puff pastry with which I will made chocolate croissants. I will also make a free form apple peach and frangipane tart with peach coulis and some berry turnovers.
Wow, that sounds like a lot of work, but it is over 3 classes so it's not so bad. I will start testing some recipes at home.
Angel food cake was underdone and fell out of the pan. Oops!

Magnificent butter cake cooling. It was really good!

Friday, July 3, 2009

Pastry Pro I: Week 8: Fillings and Sauces

I really enjoyed this class. Chef Loy lectured briefly about fillings, going over the differences between high and low pectic fruits, encouraging us to use a minimum amount of sugar so the fruit can be tasted. Fruit fillings need to have some starch so the rule is to use 1 1/2 tsp of starch per cup of fruit. Nutmeg goes with berries, cinnamon for apples, and cloves for peaches and apricots. Ginger goes with anything (but don't use too much). One thing he mentioned that I never really thought about was mixing 2 fruits to keep from being boring/ordinary. Mix 1 apple into a peach pie, or use 3 types of berries instead of 1.
My cooking partner Kristin and I had the following assignments:
Kristin:
tart glaze
caramel sauce
lime chiffon
baked fruit filling
I had:
dark chocolate syrup
frangipane
fruit coulis
blueberry pie filling (cooked juice filling)
champagne sabayon
For once all my dishes turned out well! Probably because this was an easy class, but what the heck, after last week it was nice to have success. It probably didn't hurt that I was really trying hard to improve my performance from last week. I read the instructions first this time and focused on producing a quality dish every time. I think the frangipane is really delightful. Nutty, fluffy, sweet and it will be great in a tart or bear claw. I used blueberries, raspberries and strawberries for the pie filling and it was tasty--a little lime juice and zest brightened it up.
I was very pleased with the peach ginger lime coulis. I pureed frozen peaches (thawed first) with crystallized ginger, strained them and added sugar and lemon juice. This was very fresh and wonderful. I like the fresh coulis better than the type where the fruit is cooked, then strained.
Fruit Coulis
16 oz fruit puree, strained
2 1/2 ounces sugar
1 ounce corn syrup
1/2 ounce lemon juice
Make fruit puree by taking 1 lb of fresh or frozen fruit, 2 T sugar and 2 T fresh lemon juice and processing in blender or food processor until smooth. Pour into a fine sieve set over a bowl and use a rubber spatula to press the puree through the sieve; discard solids.
My sabayon turned out very nicely and although I don't think I'll be making it for myself (it takes 8 egg yolks!) at least I know what it looks like and next time the Chopped or Top Chef contestants talk about their sabayon I won't be wondering how it's made.
My chocolate syrup was great--and I will find a way to use it when we make finished products.
The past few weeks we have been making components that we will be able to put together over 3 classes. We've made pie crusts, croissant dough, puff pastry, custards, etc. and put them in the freezer. Theoretically we should be able to pull out these components a couple weeks from now and make finished products. Trouble is who can remember what we made? My mind is clogged up with planning a national social work conference to be held in 3 weeks and I haven't even written my speeches yet! So when I can't sleep at night I'm alternately trying to remember what's in the freezer at culinary school and what the Bureau of Prisons social workers should hear about at the conference. The other problem is with my so call components. I know I can't use my puff pastry because it was not good. We froze the "lock-in" one week and rolled it out the next week and this was not successful. We are allowed to make another batch of puff pastry at home and bring it in but that is the only thing we can bring in. Some of my other components were not very good and I didn't save them. I threw out my pastry cream and creme anglaise so I'll have to re-make them as well. We will have to make 1 pie, 1 cake, 2 laminated items, a stirred custard, and a baked custard over the 3 classes. That really doesn't sound too bad, but then nothing does until you're standing in the kitchen at school and time is flying by!
I have been practicing though. I have made pie crust at home at least 4 times and my family is sick of coconut cream pie. I made blitz pastry puff twice now and palmiers are also on the "don't make that again" list. My pastry cream is light, smooth and delicious and everyone loves it.
For the 4th of July I am making a tart pastry filled with berries and mascarpone cheese with a blueberry coulis. I hope by the time we have the final exam I'll be able to make the required items with ease. As strange as it sounds I'm really enjoying the pastry class and find myself studying the notes from class and thinking about making things all the time. I have purchased several books and read them at night when I'm bleary eyed and tired. When my husband is watching TV I'm reading:
Bakewise by Shirley O'Corriher
Cookwise by Shirley O'Corriher
The Essentials of Baking, Williams and Sonoma
Baking Boot Camp
Chocolates and Confections (CIA) by Peter Greweling
Ratio by Michael Ruhlman
I have made lists of new recipes to try, tried new techniques for making puff pastry and pie crust and my counter is cluttered with stacks of my notes, recipes, books, equipment.
If someone were to come into my house and look at the books in my kitchen and then the ones in my bedroom they might be surprised to find that I'm also reading:
The End of Overeating by David Kessler
Move a Little, Lose a Lot by James Levine
Although I'm in pastry class now I am also interested in living a long time so another side of me is very aware of downside of gourmet eating and cooking!
At the 2009 Southwest Foodservice Expo earlier this week I was reminded of my interest in nutrition and health when I attended a demo by an instructor from Remington College. He spoke of 21st century nutrition and how important it is to be nutrition-saavy today. After all, the baby boomers like me are now in our late 40's through 60's and we are now focused on living a quality life well into our 90's. We are not passive and content with listening to mainstream authorities when there is a better way. The chef demonstrated using ancient grains to make things such as a quinoa tortilla, a crepe with amaranth, and a wild rice and black rice waffle. For moisture he used what he called "tri solution", a mixture of silken tofu, soy milk, yogurt, and rice milk. He spoke of reducing salt, fat, and chemicals in our food--all of great interest to me.
I tasted the things he made and found them to be very unusual and good. Compared to the very highly seasoned, fatty, sugary, and salty things I had been sampling earlier his things were rather bland but I know that if I'm not eating the aforementioned common foods the natural dishes taste much better.
The culinary trend of today seems to be more of a focus on healthy, sustainable, organic, and local. At the Texas Chef's Association meeting this week Chef Michael Moribito started the round table by asking all the attendees to consider growing their own gardens. All present spoke of their home gardens if they had one. I laughed to myself because I am now on my 3rd year of growing vegetables seriously. For many, many years my mother always had a huge yard of vegetables and fruits which she always wanted to show me. I yawned through most of her tours and photos of her perfect vegetables and fruits. She was particularly proud of her persimmon tree and fig tree. When she moved in with me in 2000 she wanted a small vegetable garden so we made her one every year which she faithfully watered, weeded, and cared for from the ages of 76 to 81. I enjoyed the vegetables she grew but was way to "busy" to get very involved. We moved in late 2005 to our current house and created a space outside her bedroom door for a small vegetable garden, but she died in the spring of 2006 before we could plant it. While she was in the hospital in late March she told me to be sure to buy the Japanese eggplants at Russell Feed Store in Benbrook, the only place she could ever find Ichiban eggplants. So I trekked over there and bought several plants. She never saw the end result but she would have been pleased.
The next year I had a man come out and create a raised bed that is 20 feet by 12 feet. I have since had both an herb garden outside her bedroom door (which is near my kitchen) and I always plant shiso (perilla) for her and a garden full of Japanese eggplant, Japanese cucumber, tomatoes, edamame, various peppers, green beans. I have a raspberry bush and strawberry plants. When I'm out in the garden I think about my mother and know she would have been so thrilled to see all the perfect vegetables and know how much I enjoy cooking them, eating them, and sharing them with others. I wish I had taken the time to learn all her gardening tips when she was alive but I was so "busy" then. The least I can do is have a garden in honor of her memory and perhaps pass on her love of gardening to my four children and grandchildren. One of my children, my son Glenn, loves the garden and the biggest enthusiast is my granddaughter Kyndal. At 5 she comes over every week and the first thing she wants to do is pick berries or tomatoes and always insists to have a lot to take home with her. She also wants to be a chef!

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Pastry Pro I: Week 7: Custards



A custard is anything thickened by the coagulation of egg proteins. Custards can be stirred or baked. Stirred custards are cooked on the stove top and must be stirred throughout cooking to stabilize the eggs and prevent curdling (overcooking). Think of the filling for a cocount cream pie, made with pastry cream. Pastry cream is a custard. Another common custard in creme anglaise (vanilla custard sauce). Now I have some experience making custards. I have made successful creme brulee, panna cotta, and recently a very good coconut cream pie so I went into this class with confidence. How hard could it be to make some custards after all? Chef Loy warned us about curdling and the thin line between perfection and ruin so I was a little worried.
Pastry class in Texas when it's 100 degrees outside is also a factor. It's hard to concentrate 80+ degree kitchen! We were given the the following assignments:

Pastry Cream

Vanilla Custard Sauce

Chocolate Mousse

Creme Brulee

Lemon Curd

Panna Cotta

Flan

Fresh Fruit Bavarian

I was teamed with Eric and gave him first choice for 4 items. He picked Chocolate Mousse,

Creme Brulee, Lemon Curd and the Bavarian.

I thought things were going well as I was making my flan. It seemed pretty simple. I made pastry cream and then realized it was awfully thick and lumpy looking although I did everything according to the instructions (and I have made this before!) The creme anglaise looked fine, however I saw some signs of curdling around the edges of the pan so that should have clued me in on the fact that it was overdone but I have never made this before so I wasn't sure. I now know what overdone creme angliase looks like though. My panna cotta looked pretty good but when it was tasted it was definitely a little too "tight", meaning too much gelatin. Working with sheet gelatin is a little tricky so this will take some practice to get right. The pastry cream turned into a too thick, lumpy mass by tasting time. Surprisingly, the flan was very good but the sauce I attempted to create was not so good--brown sugar, syrup, nuts got very hard and sticky.
Eric's mousse was good, the Bavarian cream OK, the creme brulee a little soft, and he did not get the lemon curd done. Although most of what we made turned out either mediocre to bad it was a good demonstration of the frustrating dynamic of failing to make something due to the situation. I could go into my kitchen right now and make very good pastry cream with a recipe from the textbook but I'm not juggling 3 or 4 other dishes using different equipment and around a lot of distractions. The factors at school that make cooking ordinary dishes hard are being timed, unfamiliar equipment, and unfamiliar ingredients. Also, making something for the first time is always a gamble. The pastry cream at school used flour but I prefer using cornstarch for smoothness. I would have also reduced the amount of flour but I didn't know it at the time.
Now do I want to go home and practice making something with these ingredients?:
1 quart half and half
1 vanilla bean, split
12 egg yolks
10 oz sugar
Whisk eggs yolks and sugar together in a mixing bowl. Temper the egg mixture with 1/3 of the hot cream, return entire mixture to saucepan. Cook over medium high heat, stirring constantly until thick enough to coat back of a spoon. Do NOT allow the sauce to boil. As soon as it thickens, remove it form the heat, strain it and put in a clean bowl. Chill over an ice bath.
(This is the recipe for Creme Anglaise)
I have a 5 year physical for my job coming up this fall so after culinary school for a year I'm afraid to see what the cholesterol level is going to be!

Friday, June 19, 2009

Pastry Pro 1: Week 6: Laminated Doughs

Chef Loy
The thing I love about culinary school is learning new things and then seeing the finished
product. Other than cakes, which I bake for my family and friends, and holiday cookies, the occasional dinner rolls, quick breads, and cookies, I have stayed away from baking due to time constraints and the constant worry about weight gain. After working all day I hardly have time to make dinner let alone bake something. And then of course, the fact that it doesn't take too many pieces of any baked good to add on the pounds. I typically buy a loaf of multi-grain bread from Artisan Baking Company and enjoy a slice each morning. I would love to go to a bakery and stock up on danish pastries and croissants but then I would be in big trouble when I go for my annual physical (which is coming up soon!) One of the students in my class mentioned that her cholesterol level is up 70 points since starting pastry class. I'll soon find out the damage report on myself. I still treasure the learning process and even if I don't make laminated dough too often at least I'll know how if the occasion ever comes up and I am now capable of making a beautiful and tasty croissant I think a treat of homemade croissants at Christmas would be wonderful. And, if you've ever looked at a Williams-Sonoma catalog they sell frozen croissants for a small fortune ($39.95 for 15) and they come frozen and you have to bake them yourself!



Lamination refers to the process of layering the dough and fat. When baked, the butter worked into the layers of dough gives off moisture, and the steam causes the thin layers of dough to puff and rise. There is no substitute for butter here--can't use olive oil or reduce the amount of butter or it won't be the same thing. Folding is the most critical factor--the layers must be even and consistent. The process of folding is not all that complicated but requires repeating at least 3 times with resting and cooling periods in between. The whole whole process takes hours from start to finish but the finished product is out of this world. Much better than what they call "croissants" at most stores and even bakeries. I usually skip them because I've had so many bad croissants over the years. I do love a really good chocolate croissant though, so maybe I'll try making that eventually. Some good tips we learned--brush off excess flour between turns, keeep the dough covered during the resting and folding periods, and don't roll it too thin.
Last week we started our croissant/danish and puff pastry doughs by encasing the butter in the dough. We froze the dough for both puff pastry and croissants with the intention of doing the folds in tonight's class and then baking off a small piece of dough and saving the rest for a class later on when we would make finished products with our doughs. Chef Loy gave a very detailed and interesting lecture on lamination and then threw out a lot of French terms which I hope I can remember. Bouchees, vol-au-vents and feuilletees are some of the different types of puff pastries. We went to our stations and started by working on a new type of dough, blitz puff pastry. Now this is something very useful. It's a short cut to the much more time consuming real puff pastry and is made somewhat like a biscuit dough. We cut in the butter, some salted water and the made a shaggy dough, rolled it out, folded it, chilled it and folded it 4 more times, chilling it in between. This was not hard at all and resulted in a very flaky and puff like product. On the other hand, the puff dough from the freeze did not perform. Our puff samples were pathetic, flat and ugly. The croissant dough, however, made lovely croissants, largely due to the yeast in that dough. Since we were supposed to use the frozen dough later on I know I'm going to have to make my own at home, which is good because then I'll have to practice.
Croissants

We were able to use the blitz dough to make anything we wanted. I was attracted to the palmiers and wanted to make some. Later I realized that I used to buy very large palmiers at the bakery for my mother but they were called elephant ears. She loved those things and it made me sad when I thought about how tickled she'd be to have a homemade palmier from me. If fact, all the things we're doing in the lamination classes are things my mother dearly loved. In Japan she grew up eating French bakery goods--the cream puff, eclairs, croissants and such and always spoke fondly of them, but she was not a pastry maker and we never lived near any French bakeries so I didn't appreciate her good taste. I wish she could be here today when I practice making more palmiers. I miss her so much but her love of cooking, gardening, and making things for people will live on in me. Thanks Mom.









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